Adventures in Portugal: Historic Heartland

 We left Tomar to ride to Batalha and began the day with a climb.  What a way to wake up the crew.  The road hit 10 percent grade out of Tomar and relative to other roads we've followed was busy with early morning traffic.  A left turn at the top of the climb and a couple of kilometers more we came to our first stop of the day.  An aqueduct that had, at one time, served Convento do Christo.  The architecture is impressive.  One of the largest and most complete aqueducts that I've ever seen.  We were able to climb up both to see the view and the construction under the not so careful watch of the Portuguese army out on a training exercise. It was the beginning of a lot day.  It was one of the longest rides of the trip - 65 kilometers; and one of the hilliest.  We had what seemed like several major climbs during the day.  Not only was there the "wake up" climb leaving Tomar.  We climbed to lunch, and after lunch climbed again....

 Our ride from Ansaio to Tomar took us through some countryside that, in places, reminded me of the Algarve in the south of Portugal.  Hew has this uncanny ability to find roads that are not well travelled, yet are paved and beautiful to ride on a bike.  I teased Carolyn this morning suggesting that a tag line for the business might be shortcuts through Portugal until she correctly reminded me that many of their routes are, in fact, not shortcuts.  We may only be 30 kilometers from Ansiao but the ride took 50 kilometers through Olive groves and country back roads. With the problems with the e-bike continuing Hew took to the van for the day and provided me with the touring bike that he is using when cycling along with the group.  The first 1/2 of the ride - until the coffee stop - took us up and down hillsides through the country.  Narrow lanes wind up and down the hillsides taking locals to their homes and small farms.  The hills are often steep. ...

 Riding from Coimbra to Tomar began with a sense that we'd fallen asleep in Portugal and awaken in Belgium.  The riding was flat and relatively flat.  It was interesting scenery with stork towers, and small villages along the way.  After a few kilometers we reached Conimbriga where a significant Roman archelogical site can be found.  A visit to the site, disappointingly closed on a Sunday, allowed us a few moments to view some of the site.  The mosaics on the floors of the buildings, protected from the elements were impressive. It was here that the problems on the e-bike became more pronounced.  One of the bolts in the motor had worked it's way loose, and I was beginning to notice movement in the bottom bracket and pedals.  (See the previous post, "An Adventure").  Leaving Conimbriga we stopped for a few moments at the artesan spring that fed the Roman baths at Conimbriga. A few kilometers further on we turned onto a road that is a part of th...

Mondego Dam From Santa Comba Dao we set out for Coimbra.  A climb over a ridge and a descent brought us to the Mondego River at a large Dam.  The day was warm - headed towards 29 degrees.  While we'd travelled about 15 kilometer to get to the dam I find myself thinking of the ride that followed being the point of the day.  From the dam we followed a very quiet, winding road along the River to Coimbra.  It was rugged territory.  The initial ride along the river well marked for cyclists - green lines painted on the road.  A few motorcycles passing along the road but almost no cars.  About 1/2 way to Coimbra the valley narrowed.  A detour was required with a steep climb over a ridge - I was grateful for the e-bike at the point the road hit 19 percent grade.  Beyond the ridge we descended back into a much narrower river valley - a gorge really.  There were kayaker's on the river.  It was Saturday and people were enjoying both the r...

 This day, from Viseu to Santa Comba Dao, began with the news that one, then four, of the cyclists from British Columbia had tested positive for COVID.  This news delayed the morning as we discussed and decided what to do.  Continuing required the consent of all those who were negative and understanding the "rules" in Portugal with regard to COVID.  The rules are ambiguous, as they are everywhere it seems, in this time.  Finding out what they are required a phone call to local authorities, who then needed to find an English speaker to help in our understanding.  The information about those who were positive was recorded and instructions given, we thought, to go to a local hospital for a confirming PCR test.  Once all was sorted those of us who were negative got on the road to our next destination.  Santa Comba Dao. The ride was beautiful.  Temperatures had turned and the day eventually reached 26 degrees.  The ride, after a brief, gentle...

 We were able to explore the city of Viseu today.  One of the oldest cities in Portugal it has Roman roads, fortifications build before the 10th Century, a Cathedral from the 11th Century and a beautiful, although hilly, old town surrounded by modern amenities.  Our day began with a walking tour of some of the key areas provided by Carolyn.  Carolyn and Hew first come to Portugal to teach English as a second language.  After some training in Lisbon, Viseu became their home for a time.  They know the city well.  Carolyn lead us from the hotel through the square where Sandy and I had our afternoon drinks the day before and into the old city.  We turned onto one of the key roads - all roads lead to the Cathedral.  A small sign told me that the road was originally one of the Roman roads that brought people into Viseu.  I can only imagine that it was a much smaller place at the time.  The road was filled with a variety of shops - most of...